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  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 10:23 AM
    PorscheBoost wrote about the BMS (Burger Tuning) JB4 being available for the Porsche 991.2 9A2B6 3.0 turbo motor a few months back. Since then BMS has shipped plenty of JB4 boxes to Porsche customers and it is always great to read a first hand review. The review below is by PorscheBoost member @Aatish: Breaking this down into 3 different sections: 1.) Install 2.) Performance impression 3.) Daily drivability impression TL;DR: If you’re looking for a nice bump in power that doesn’t involve taking out your ECU and risking your warranty at a high level, then I would totally go JB4 route. Not sure how it compares to other piggy back units, however given the experience with my 991.2 C2 and my past dealing with BMS and the team, I wouldn’t consider anything else at the moment. Install TL;DR: - Relatively simple, in comparison with other units. - No need to remove bumper - About 30 – 45 min if you take your time Performance TL;DR: - Very noticeable increase in power - Not going to make your car a built GTR, but definitely significantly faster than stock - Logging suite and app are ace Drivability TL;DR: - Not jumpy or unrefined in any way during normal driving - No codes or issues experienced (so far) - Feels just as refined as stock Install Overall, not hard just requires proper prep and a slow pace. There are only 2 sensors, one on the Y-pipe and one on the intake manifold. Y-pipe is easy to access…intake manifold is more involved. Still, possible to do without removing any body panels. Only tool needed was an 11mm socket to disconnect the negative battery terminal. 1.) With a cool car, unlock car, roll down windows, and pop the frunk and engine cover open. Do not turn on the car (or let it run for too long). You do not want to work while the engine is hot/warm. 2.) In the frunk, pop off the top cover exposing the battery. Take 11mm socket and disconnect the negative battery terminal. This will cut power to all systems (including the DME and all the sensors). Optional step, though I’ve always done this when install piggyback tunes in the past. Lowers the risk of shorting something during install… 3.) In the rear of the car, remove the duct leading to the intake plenum. Pinch outside wall to flex the stiff plastic clip. This will allow you to slip the rubber off the retaining wall, freeing the duct. 4.) Pull on the top edge of the plastic cover to free from top corner retaining plugs. Once free, repeat with bottom corner plugs. Once loose, shift up and lift out, exposing the fans and their connector pieces. 5.) Pick a fan, and grab the connector. Push the tab on the rear of the connection, and pull firmly to release the connection. There is a retaining piece to keep the fans affixed to the frame. To release, pull firm and pinch the pin from underneath. Same goes for the clip wire. Remove fan and tuck the clip away from the opening. Repeat for the other fan. Make sure you note which fan is right and left. 6.) To remove the plenum, first unhook the release cable from its seat on the plenum. Then, firm lift on the plenum, releasing the pressure holds from the interior plumbing. Lift out completely from bay. 7.) Note position of the Y-pipe sensor. Practice releasing and installing the connector with 1 hand. Get a feel for how the plug releases and the behavior of the plug when properly inserted. 8.) Optional: Grab some lube (lotion or Vaseline) and make sure your hands are somewhat moist and slippery. 9.) Reaching the intake connector requires giving your car a minor colonoscopy. Note the position of the sensor and plug. Route the wiring harness with the brown and black wires near the connector area. Go in with a flat hand work your way down there. I have large hands, so I needed to do some squeezing (hence the lube). Get your hand behind the connector. Once down there grab the back and release the plug. Grab the JB4 female end and insert the DME end into it. Will take some finessing, but it is possible. Once that’s in, grab the male JB4 end and plug into the sensor plug. Make sure it’s securely attached (should not be loose). Once satisfied, slowly get your hand/arm out. Be careful not to tear any skin. Again, will require some finessing but it’s possible. Practicing with the Y-pipe connector and building some muscle memory goes a long way. 10.) Repeat connection steps for the Y-pipe (not as hard). Yellow cable wiring harness. 11.) Disconnect the sound tube on the left side, route the green wire through till it stops moving 12.) Inside car, fold seats back and pop the top carpet cover off on driver side. Just grab and pull firmly. Green wire should be there. Pull through completely and connect the OBD wire to the plug. Then plug into the OBD port, near the accelerator pedal. Once connected, push wiring underneath floor matt and into the side seems to hide. Reattach the carpet cover. 13.) Reconnect the tube if you want to. I didn’t. Tuck the JB4 unit into the right-hand side of the engine compartment. There’s a little space where it tucks nicely. Zip tie if you want to. 14.) Repeat steps 6-1 in reverse to reassemble the plenum, fans, cover, and battery. Once connected, start car and make sure no CEL. Connect to the app if you have the Bluetooth option. 15.) Go for a quick spin to make sure everything is well. There shouldn’t be any CELs or warnings… Will take a few miles to adapt, but you’ll notice a decent bump during the first couple of pulls. Once the car has some miles on it with the unit, it picks up in power and it’s very noticeable the change. Performance Initial impressions after install were nice, though a bit underwhelming at first. Car felt the same down low in the revs, however really picked up after 4500. JB4 was set on map 1 and driven for about 100 miles or so. Definitely became more noticeable after a days worth of driving. Pulled like a train throughout the range; no more fall off feel after 5000 rpm, like how it feels on stock. It pulls very strong once boost kicks in, all the way to redline. After shifts, the boost is held and it’s a noticeable pull when into next gear. Map 1 is a great starter map. Map 2 turned it up a notch more. Definitely a bit more pull during acceleration. The way to car picks up in RPM after 5500 rpm is legit. Stock, car feels like it’s being held back and falls off a bit. With Map 2, car keeps pulling hard till redline, and keeps intensity through the gear. I love it!!! The JB4 Bluetooth kit is optional. I would honestly not get the unit without this option. Worth the extra money; gives you a lot more control and ability. I’ve been logging regularly to make sure timing and AFRs are stable (they have been). Map switching on the fly is sweet. Very little lag in data communications; it’s super responsive. Auto-log feature is love and hate. I like that it starts a log when I do a pull, and automatically ends once I lift off…sometimes it starts when I’m aggressively passing someone though. Kinda annoying, though I’ll blame this on me. The manual log function works very well. Hoping to try E85 mixes in the coming week, once I burn through 1 more tank. I have about 300 miles on this unit in the past 3 days. Hopefully should have another 200-300 by next weekend. Drivability Cruising around how I normally do (sport mode, manual shift), car feels factory in terms of refinement. Definitely feels a bit more powerful, however everything is still smooth. Shifts in both auto and manual mode are still quick and snappy. No jerkiness or anything abnormal so far… Haven’t had any codes or CELs (knock on wood). Scan function from the JB4 app shows nothing wrong. Drove car through light rain (not by choice). Weather proofing seems to be up to snuff. If you’re concerned about compromising the refined feel of the car with this unit, I would not be too concerned. I used it all day for my Saturday rounds, and it all seemed to be business as normal (though it just moved a bit faster). Final Thoughts Overall, very satisfied with the JB4. Would definitely recommend this to anybody looking for some more performance, without the need to remove ECU. A proper flash tune may provide a bit more flexibility for performance gains…but this is more than enough for me. Performance bump with map 1 and 2 is worth it alone. The app and extra maps is even better. I can geek out with the logging software and the user adjustable map function if I want to as well, which is sweet. Was very satisfied with BMS when I had my Bimmer. This holds true with their Porsche offering. Excited to see how this platform develops as more people jump on board! Update 2 - Drag Strip Car was heat soaked from the commute over and the prolonged idling during staging. That said, it performed like a champ. No issues during the runs; everything was business as usual. Numbers Map 0 (stock) - 12.699 @111.00mph Map 3 Run 1 - 12.165 @115.11mph Map 3 Run 2 - 12.237 @115.66 mph IATs were at around 130-140 prior to each run (not ideal). Shoulda brought a fan to cool things off in-between runs. Oh well
    0 replies | 187 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 10:03 AM
    Exactly what kind of voodoo is at work here? To the knowledge of VWBoost this is the first and only MKVII Volkswagen Golf R to top 600 horsepower at all four wheels on the factory 2.0 EA888 engine internals. Even the catback exhaust is stock. Will the engine last? Probably not but that is incredible power and a great looking curve to go with it. This was achieved on E85 with MPI (supplemental port fuel injection) at around 34 psi of boost. Incredible!
    5 replies | 202 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:41 AM
    Another day and another drag race video involving the new Supra. This one unfortunately is pure clickbait. For whatever reason the Supra is getting compared with the Mustang quite often likely because they both represent a performance value although the Mustang GT is much cheaper and not facing any markup nonsense. The G29 Z4 and the Supra are the same basic thing except the Z4 is heavier due to the drop top. That means the Supra has the edge. The Mustang GT is heavier than the Supra as well but it does have a 5.0 liter third gen Coyote motor which offers quite a bit more power and top end punch. All three of these cars are automatic and all three are rear wheel drive. So what wins? The Supra somehow. It gets the best start so really it is traction that decides this making for a practically useless comparison. The Mustang has the slowest start and this is exactly how a drag race can be misleading as it is the car pulling the hardest as evidenced by the 0-200 kph time. A roll race would be much more informative here and remove the traction factor. Plus, they should include trap speeds. 0-100: Supra: 4.54 Z4: 4.73 Mustang: 5.20 400 meters: Supra: 12.83 Z4: 13.02 Mustang: 13.16 0-200: Supra: 16.89 Z4: 17.01 Mustang: 16.42 800 meters: Supra: 20.15 Z4: 20.60 Mustang: 20.33 The Mustang is the fastest car of this trio and this video is poorly done and misleading. Who the hell runs 13's in a 10-speed automatic 2019 Mustang GT other than these people?
    4 replies | 259 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 09:12 AM
    There will be those who debate whether this is 700 crank horsepower or not depending on drivetrain losses but that is not where BenzBoost will focus. How about the fact that this 2.0 liter AMG M133 motor is making 542 horsepower to all four wheels with a hybrid turbocharger? The Pure Turbos Stage 2 M133 turbocharger is operating very well but that is only part of the equation. AMR Performance is working some real magic to achieve this output on 93 octane pump fuel: Yes, meth injection is necessary but that is some great work not only on the peak figures but the shape of the curve. Past 5200 rpm the car holds over 500 horsepower to all four wheels through redline. That certainly is close to 700 crank horsepower and a number likely none of us ever expected to see out of the four-cylinder AMG's. Modifications: – Alpha High Pressure Fuel Pump – Alpha Center Heat Exchanger Upgrade – Alpha Auxiliary Heat Exchanger Upgrade – Alpha Cat-less Downpipe Upgrade – Armytrix Cat-Back Exhaust System – Pure Turbos 650 Turbo Upgrade (Stage 2) – Snow Performance Stage 2 Methanol Injection Kit– AMR Performance ECU Software Calibration (tune)
    2 replies | 270 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 08:54 AM
    We all know lighter wheels and tires have an impact on performance. Reducing weight that rotates has a geometric effect. That is why you want to reduce unsprung weight as much as possible as the performance benefit multiplies to a greater degree than just reducing overall car mass by the same amount. Previously, BoostAddict posted dyno results showing the effect of reduced weight on horsepower at the wheels. How does this transfer to real world acceleration though? Well, Track Day TV did an interesting test on a C7 Z06 measuring acceleration results with three sets of wheels and tires. It is no surprise the lightest set offered the best the numbers: Shaving a tenth or two tenths adds up over the length of a quarter mile. We're talking gaining a few car lengths just by running lighter wheels and tires. If you're serious about performance, take your wheel, tire, and rotor weights seriously too.
    0 replies | 515 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 08:26 AM
    Well, this is somewhat amusing. Tesla is making all sorts of bold claims based on laptimes from prototypes yet somehow is very quiet on what went wrong with their test car on the Nurburgring which needed to be towed off the famous track. Things go wrong in testing and sorting out bugs is why you test but it seems there is quite a bit to work out before claiming the Model S is a Porsche Taycan killer around the track. Porsche is fighting this battle with a production model that is for sale while Tesla is comparing something they are still working on to the Taycan. Not exactly fair but that is not stopping Tesla from making bold predictions. A 7:05 Nurburgring time? We'll believe it when we see it:
    6 replies | 156 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    Yesterday, 08:11 AM
    Weren't numbers already posted for Gintani's Ferrari 488 Pista tune? Yes, three months back. The graph posted then was from a Mustang dynamometer and BoostAddict definitely loves to see more data from different dyno types. The Dynojet result here on race gas with catless downpipes is very healthy: The horsepower peak is 738 horses to the rear wheels on the Dynojet compared to 687 on the Mustang and that Pista had catless downpipes as well. It sure is going to be fun to see these what these cars do once tuners start playing with the turbochargers.
    2 replies | 87 view(s)
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